Springs · Vaughan
Extension Spring Replacement
One of the springs beside the track is hanging loose at the front end, its pulley dangling, and a length of cable lies slack along the top of the door.
In plain words
Choosing the right spring is a matter of weight, not colour. Extension springs are rated for the weight they are meant to lift, and the correct pair for your door is found by weighing the door itself with the opener released, then checking that figure against the wire size, coil diameter and length of the old springs. Paint colour on the end coil is only a hint; older springs fade, get overpainted or were never quite right to begin with. A pair matched to the measured weight gives a door that holds at half height and lifts with one hand, and an opener that works lightly.
How the visit goesOpen the door by hand and it drifts back down on its own, a little at first and then all at once. Nothing is broken that you can see, but the springs along the tracks look tired, rusty and slightly sagging.
Extension Spring Replacement
How the visit goes
Hangers, brackets and what they are screwed into
Extension springs pull against whatever holds their back end, usually an angle-iron hanger bolted to the rear track support or lag-screwed into a ceiling joist. The technician checks that this anchor is tight, that the lag screws bite into wood rather than drywall or a split joist, and that the hanger has not bent under years of load. The bracket that carries the fixed pulley at the front of the track is checked the same way, along with the bottom brackets on the door that the lift cables pull on. An anchor that has loosened lets the spring's geometry drift, which is one reason a door slowly becomes uneven.
Setting both sides to the same hole
The initial tension is set with the door open and clamped, so the technician is adjusting slack springs rather than loaded ones. Each cable's S-hook is placed in a hole on the hanger, or its clip set to a mark, and the two sides are put at the same position. The cables are drawn to the same snugness so that neither corner of the door is being pulled ahead of the other. A level across the top section confirms the door is square in its tracks. Only when both sides read the same do the clamps come off and the door come down for its first balance check.
The numbers that stay with the door
Before leaving, the technician tells you what the door weighed, which spring rating and length went on, whether the pulleys and cables were renewed, and which hook position the cables were set to. Write it on a card by the opener or inside the door's manual. Extension springs are sold by rating and length, so the next set can be ordered from that card without weighing the door again, and a technician arriving later can see at a glance whether the door has been altered since. Add the date and roughly how many times a day the door is used; together those two facts give a fair idea of when the springs will be due again.
Extension Spring Replacement
In the van
Replacement rollers and hinges
Pulleys (sheaves) and forks
Lift cables
Garage-door spray lubricant
Containment (safety) cables
Extension Spring Replacement
What affects the quote
Door weight and size
Spring rating follows the door's weight, and a wide insulated door or a wood door takes heavier springs than a light single. Weight and height together set the parts on the quote.
Condition of the lift cables
Cables with fraying, rust at the loop or a kink are renewed as a pair while the springs are off. Sound cables are re-routed and set, and the quote says which applies.
Opener adjustment and testing
Resetting the opener's force and travel to the newly balanced door and running the reversal tests is a short task that the quote names when it applies.
What to have ready
- Do the springs run along the tracks beside the door, or is there one spring above the opening?
- Is it a single or a double door, and what is it made of?
- Does the opener still move the door, and does it sound strained?
Extension Spring Replacement: questions
QuestionsWhy does the opener get adjusted after new springs?
Because the door is now much lighter for the opener to move. Over the years, as the old springs weakened, the opener's force setting may have been turned up to keep the door going, and its travel limits were set against a door that sat differently on the floor. Left alone, that extra force would push the newly balanced door too hard. Resetting force and travel, then repeating the reversal tests, matches the opener to the door it now has.
Why does the door slam down the last bit?
A door that drops the final stretch is telling you the springs are no longer holding it. As an extension spring loses its temper it gives less pull near the bottom of travel, where the door needs the most support, so the door falls that last foot. Fresh springs matched to the door's weight bring the door down under control and take that shock off the bottom section and the opener.
Could I switch to torsion springs instead of replacing the extension ones?
Sometimes, and it is worth asking. A torsion system needs room above the door opening for its shaft and a header that can carry the spring bracket, which many older garages with a low ceiling simply lack; extension springs are there for that reason. Where the headroom exists, a conversion is a separate job with its own hardware and quote. The technician can tell you on the spot which route suits your garage.
Related services
- Garage Door Hinge ReplacementThe roller at the top of the second panel is leaning outward and only half of the wheel is still in the track.
- Garage Door Track Repair or ReplacementYou bought the house with a door that sticks near the top of its travel.
- Garage Door Cable ReplacementThe car bumper kissed the door on the way in.